Year of the Horse's Spirited Start

When it comes to Lunar New Year—or for that matter, any Chinese celebration—there's rarely a call to break out the bubbly.

Instead, cognac is typically the drink of choice, even if there's little that seemingly ties France's signature spirit to China from a cultural or culinary perspective.

As if to explore this unlikely connection, the folks at Hennessy, the 249-year French brand that's the world's largest cognac producer, have taken to hosting an annual Lunar New Year bash for a select group of Asian-American "influencers"—corporate types, fashion designers and just those who relish a good party (and a good sip).

This year's event, held on Tuesday night at the Lake Pavilion Restaurant in Flushing, proved to be a loud and lively affair, replete with a 10-course feast (the lamb chops braised with Hennessy cognac were especially popular) and the traditional parade of dragon dancers. The 50-plus guests, including fashion blogger Wendy Lam, Nike NKE +1.29% brand manager Rocky Xu and sneaker industry guru Yu-Ming Wu, were each welcomed with a token gift of cash, stuffed in a red envelope—a Lunar New Year tradition.

Of course, the drinks were a given: Hennessy and more Hennessy—specifically, the cognac house's smooth-sipping Privilege expression (each table got its own bottle to share), plus a "Wooden Horse" cocktail (in honor of this being the Year of the Horse) that featured the same spirit. Hennessy officials on hand noted that the brand's Chinese roots extend all the way back to 1859, the year the spirit was introduced in China.

But even they struggled to articulate why cognac, a drink normally enjoyed after a meal instead of during it, was such a mainstay at Chinese festivities.

Perhaps it's because cognac is a pricey sip that ties in with China's appreciation for luxury goods. The idea is that a bottle of Privilege, which runs around $55, on the table announces to guests that they are being treated well. "It's a widely recognized currency," said Hennessy Senior Vice President Rodney Williams.

Or perhaps it's because cognac actually pairs fairly well with Chinese food, especially the often rich fare served at banquets. "I guess it breaks up all the grease and spices," said Kevin Leong, a fashion designer in attendance.